My first visit to Sichuan was in 2006 to research a magazine story. I was instantly drawn to the places beyond the big cities: the ancient towns scattered across the Sichuan basin and mountain valleys, where old wooden houses, riverside teahouses and stone-paved lanes defined the vibe…

I first travelled to Sichuan in 2006, and my immediate reaction when I stepped out into Chengdu was a slightly bewildered: “Two thousand or so years of history… where is it?” On the surface, the concrete sprawl had seemingly swallowed the past. But it didn’t take long to realise that the history wasn’t in preserved monuments – it’s most alive in the neighbourhoods…

When I say “I’m going to Yunnan”, even super well-travelled people look quizzical. “Where’s that?” they ask, and fair enough too. After all, when people think of China their minds instantly click to the Greatest Sino Hits… adorable pandas, the Great Wall, Terracotta Warriors, The Bund, the Summer Palace, Forbidden City and maybe even…

For the China-wary, Hangzhou, a mere 45-minute fast train ride from Shanghai, is the perfect place to go – it’s clean, spacious, and within cooee of pretty green spaces. It’s been a tourist attraction since the Tang dynasty (618–907), although arguably, with a population now of over 9 million, it’s not quite as peaceful as it was in Marco Polo’s day. Nestled on the gorgeous West Lake (西湖) and surrounded…

There are plenty of reasons to love Sichuan – pandas, food, the local opera, extraordinary natural beauty, and glimpses into Tibetan culture. But honestly, you could ditch the sightseeing, decamp to a teahouse, sit with locals, break out the melon seeds and be perfectly happy. You’ll be embracing the local modus operandi if you do: namely, to slow down, chill out and enjoy life.