My first visit to Sichuan was in 2006 to research a magazine story. I was instantly drawn to the places beyond the big cities: the ancient towns scattered across the Sichuan basin and mountain valleys, where old wooden houses, riverside teahouses and stone-paved lanes defined the vibe…

I first travelled to Sichuan in 2006, and my immediate reaction when I stepped out into Chengdu was a slightly bewildered: “Two thousand or so years of history… where is it?” On the surface, the concrete sprawl had seemingly swallowed the past. But it didn’t take long to realise that the history wasn’t in preserved monuments – it’s most alive in the neighbourhoods…