This showstopper of a dish originates from the Chittagong district, and is traditionally served to welcome a new groom into the bride’s family. Mellow, lightly spiced and creamy, the skinless chicken is melt-in-your-mouth and flavoursome throughout thanks to slow cooking and bhagar or tempering of golden fried onions.

As a child, and being one of the eldest grandchildren, I was lucky enough to enjoy leisurely breakfasts with my late nani (maternal grandmother) whenever I visited my grandparents’ home. For me, this was my time with my grandmother, sitting at the kitchen table and being served a portion of doi chira in an enamel bowl. I would watch as she sliced up the bananas, then poured warm milk on top of the chira (which I would later learn she handmade, on visits to Bangladesh). Next, she’d add an occasional dollop of yoghurt or doi, and sometimes gur (date molasses). A sprinkle of salt offset the sweet and tangy, and created a simple dish that was a joy to eat.