“Growing up, my family didn’t eat out very often. But when we did, it was almost always at a Persian chelo kababi, where we’d each order a humongous platter of buttery saffron rice topped with two skewers of grilled meat and a grilled tomato. We each had our favourites, and mine was invariably joojeh kabob—tender, tangy pieces of saffron-and-yogurt– marinated chicken…”

“I don’t remember much about the circumstances of my first cherry clafoutis. But I must have loved the classic French farmhouse dessert, because I’ve been trying to reproduce that first custardy, almond-scented pancake ever since. As with many simple recipes, doing it well turned out to be a challenge…”